When I was young: mean food

What the HECK is “mean macaroni and cheese”?!

When I was young I knew a kid whose mom said her son made “a mean bowl of macaroni and cheese”. Now that I’m older I STILL have no idea why anyone would describe a bowl of macaroni and cheese without jalapeños as angry!

Can someone explain this to me? Where does this phraseology come from? Why does anyone think it sounds “cool”?

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